The Nazi Regime was brilliant at smoke and mirror campaigns - the ability to make you see things that were not there and to hide things that they did not want you to see. Its even true for fashion. To appear as superior and successful as possible, German fashion magazines offered only the best images possible to the point that they were able to give the impression that these items were still available for consumers. Alas! Many women living in wartime Germany knew otherwise. . .. .
Even before the fighting had started women were faced with having to make due with little resources that as time would go on would only become increasingly scarce. For many women, magazines only filled the closets in their dreams and did very little to ease their real closet woes. . .Some women were able to refashion the clothes they had to make them as fashionable as possible. Some were able to make repairs to make the clothes had just last (barely) and I am sure some took advantage of the clothes many innocent victims of the Holocaust had left behind. Women in Nazi Germany managed in so many ways to reman clothed and in some cases fashionable (if possible).
When crafting an authentic German civilian look are Fashion Magazines a reliable resource? How can they be used if they are or are not? I think to answer that question another question has to be asked . . . Who are you representing? What is your impression? If you are going for an average civilian I think these magazines can be used to an extent to create an authentic impression but if your impression is of a lady well to do, well connected and then some then these magazine would suit that impression much better. If your goal is an average gal then look to photographs instead. These magazines offered the ideal fashions and then the patterns to bring them to life. For a woman who was well connected then these magazines may have served both inspiration and a means to offering some new clothes. For an average woman who may not have been so well connected then these magazines may have just been a source of inspiration and nothing more. Dream fodder.
These magazines offered patterns in the back to be traced out and then used but lets think . . .Was there paper available for her to make these patterns up? Was there fabric for her to make use of these patterns? What about thread? Notions? And if you do sew then you can fill in the other supplies that she may have needed to make a new frock. . . . All added up, it seems a most difficult (difficult, not impossible) task to make a new dress from . . .well . . close to nothing . . . I will say though that even with minimal sewing supplies old frocks could have been styled and repaired (recycled) using the magazines as inspiration but that may be a stretch. A stretch because if thread was scarce then good luck sewing. . .. So for a real woman during this period these magazines may have had limited use. . . Does that have to be true for us?
As a reenactor, can these magazines be used to create an authentic wardrobe? Patterns and illustrations both? I say yes but like above, ask your self what is your impression goal? That may set some guidelines down right away because these magazines offer some stunning high fashion looks such as evening wear and also some plain wardrobe items like trim blouses and skirts. If you are representing a stunning socialite or your sweetie or family has some connections then these magazines might be for you. . . choose from stylish frocks and heck, maybe an evening dress as well. Note, that I emphasized the word might. . . I did that because depending on where you lived in Germany during the war that might dictate a lot of your wardrobe choices . . . You may be a socialite but sometimes things happen . . . .
To get to the point, if you are using magazine images as your inspiration I think they can work just fine for you because they can offer some insight into silhouette and lines that were available. . If you are skilled enough to use the patterns then by all means do so because these are original patterns and how authentic can you get using original patterns? Depending on your impression you can still use these patterns but be cautions about your fabric selections. An average girl may not have had access to silk but what about a plain rayon, cotton or dress weight wool? Possible. I think when it comes to using these patterns your fabrics will really guide you to an authentic look.
If you are representing a a simple country girl (I bet most are or else a simple urban girl) then pick the blouses and skirts and maybe a trim dress from these magazines . . choose simplicity above all else. The patterns offered in these magazines are great resources and offer the most authentic kinds of patterns - original ones. Of course, I have to wonder how much practical and actual use these magazines actually got given the rationing and shortages that surrounded them . .. .As far as styling goes, if you are well off, then these may give you some great ideas but I think the best resource for styling has got to be photographs.
Magazines offered the ideal on paper . . . a creation of pencil and ink . . . .A photograph offers something more real . . a brief peek into reality. I love using photographs because they are showing a real blouse, dress, pair of shoes . . .They show a real woman wearing an outfit that she hand picked probably just hours before that camera clicked. For styling an authentic outfit I think a photographs will out do a magazine doodle any day at any time and for any event. If you have to pick, pick the photograph.
Unfortunately, photographs do not come with patterns and when it comes to recreating the clothes in that image it can get tricky. If you are studying a photo with the intent to pull out a dress or something to copy I suggest try making it into a line drawing to break down the parts and details to make it more manageable and less overwhelming. Once you know what you are looking at it can be easy to find a simple pattern to re create that blouse, skirt, etc . . . There are many patterns out there to recreate these looks but finding that right one is the hardest part. Of course, I offer many Lutterloh patterns for you to use and Google images yields many as well.
Photographs or Fashion Magazines? To boil it down, its all up to you and your own needs but I favor the photos of real people over the fashion magazines. Photos offer real insight or real clothes, hair styles, and more. Magazines offer the ideal but can be great resources if used wisely. The patterns within the magazines are a great resource and when used right and are hard to beat.
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